A train ride away from nostalgia

October 08, 2023 11:16 pm | Updated 11:16 pm IST

This seems to be the age of fast trains linking various metros and in sync with that theme, Vande Bharat is the flavour of the Indian Railways. But kinetic speed and the blur of compartments isn’t entirely new and many a train did fit into that slot over the last few decades.

Readers of a certain vintage, especially those whose memories crystallised in the 1980s and 1990s, would remember a fiery quartet that ruled Southern Railway from Madras, as Chennai was called then. The four show-stoppers were these Expresses — Brindavan (to Bangalore), Kovai (to Coimbatore), Vaigai (to Madurai) and Pallavan (to Tiruchi).

The first two ran on broad gauge lines from Madras Central, the last two hustled on the metre gauge lines from Madras Egmore. These trains are still in vogue even if they may not necessarily be the speedy fashion icons of the past. For instance, the colours have changed — Brindavan used to have a green shade, now all trains mostly sport the rusty orange-brown or cream tint. Homogeneity isn’t just restricted to colours as the lines too are of uniform measurement with metre gauge becoming a thing of the past. Additionally, with the arrival of flashier and faster cousins like the Shatabdis, Tejas and Vande Bharats, these veterans evoke feelings only within those who prefer nostalgia.

Mixing memory with desire

But history always lingers and while leaning on T.S. Eliot’s magical words, we could borrow his phrase from The Wasteland: “Mixing memory with desire.” Nostalgia is often that and the four old trains are intrinsic to a glorious past and have obviously inspired the modern trains that get wide coverage. These day-trains, with the same rake being used on the up and down journeys, offered an alternative to the night mails. As stations whizzed past, the dialects changed, at times even languages too, and the terrain varied from the coastal plains to the rugged hinterland.

There was a prestige linked to these journeys. “Mappillai Vaigaile vandhanga [son-in-law landed by the Vaigai]” was uttered with pride. In Brindavan, language lessons ensued. Once a harried man said just above the ‘chai, chai’ din: “It took some time to figure out saaka [is it enough]/beka [do you want it] in Kannada.” He laughed, and those who knew both Tamil and Kannada echoed his laughter. Beku in Tamil means a dullard and beka could inadvertently mean “are you a dullard.” A gracious query can quickly twist into an insult!

Back then the pantry compartment was a coveted one. You ordered your bread-and-omelette or masala dosa, paid, leant on the high table and ate while bantering with the waiters and cooks. On days when the waiting list just did not move, the pantry and some friendly waiters offered support while you stood all the way to your destination even if the calorie consumption busted the previous records. Sweet Boli till the Andhra-Karnataka border would become Holige in terms of reference, but cutlets and tomato soup retained their moniker. These trains may have slowed down but they still offer value for money, be it the crowded second-class seating or the plush AC Chair Car. Plus it is about getting back to an older phase when only these trains offered an adrenaline rush during the day. How about some lunch with a bubbly accompaniment in Bengaluru or a classic meal at Coimbatore? Catch these trains and take a ride back in time.

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